Southern Tier Part 2 - Day #15 Sanderson, TX to Marfa, TX
Southern Tier Part 2 - Day #15
In addition to the usual I was wearing my leg-warmers, sweater, rain jacket, and socks. I crossed Three Mile Draw and saw a sign, ‘Marathon 52 miles, Alpine 83 miles’. I was in a wide canyon with distant bluffs to the north and south. Train tracks were to the left and utility poles were to the right. Barbed wire fencing with tree branch supports stretched to the right. The landscape consisted of bushes and scrub. This was my favorite part of Texas. I enjoyed the wide open space and the laid-back attitude. Many come here to visit Big Bend. There was little motor traffic and I had a nice wide shoulder, almost as wide as the lane of traffic. I rode to the left of the white line and had the entire highway to myself. There was a group of crows in the middle of the highway picking away at a small rabbit or squirrel. I noticed that I was at Five Mile Gate. It was 57° F and forecast to go up to 80° F. The sky was gray and mist clung to the buttes. I kept criss-crossing the stream bed known as Sanderson Canyon. I hadn’t seen any running water since the Pecos River.
I passed Nine Mile Gate, and had actually ridden ten miles. I stopped to flip my map panels. As I folded the map I couldn’t help but notice the elevation profile for today. I was currently at 3000 feet elevation, and would be climbing to 5000 feet. I passed Eleven Mile Gate and noticed a sign, ‘Marathon 43 miles, Alpine 74 miles’. I crossed into Pecos County. I saw my first border patrol of the day. I was now much further away from the Rio Grande. In this part of Texas US 90 is the southern-most east-west corridor and it was now a considerable distance from the border. Chances were slim that anyone would choose to cross here. I crossed over Longfellow Draw where workers were reconstructing a railroad crossing. I passed over a mile of parked freight train hopper cars. I had initially tried to count them and quickly gave up. The cars were lined up on a spur. The line eventually split away to the south following the canyon, while the highway continued west. I was riding through a wide open canyon with buttes to either side. There were stunning outcrops ahead. I crossed over Dry Creek, which lived up to its name.
I crossed into Brewster County, and immediately noticed inferior road conditions. The shoulder was rough. It was still wide but bumpy with scattered debris, so I rode to the left of the white line. It was 9:17 AM and I had ridden 23 miles. I could see a radio tower far in the distance. And then my shadow appeared. Ostensibly it would soon be time to remove my jacket and put on my sunglasses. My shadow didn’t last long, however ,and I just kept peddling. I would ride in the shoulder whenever a motorist passed, and I kept a keen lookout for goat heads. I came to a sign that said they were doing road work. I was almost to the radio tower. At 9:35 AM I passed the giant radio tower that had kept my interest for the past three miles. There was a butte to the left and a large ridge to the right. By 10 AM I had gone 31 miles, and was now at an elevation of 4000 feet. I pulled over to put on my sunglasses but elected to keep my rain jacket on. I loosened my wrist straps and unzipped the front. The air was still chilly.
I noticed the first cows that I’d seen in days. They were on the left side of the road and there weren’t very many of them. And then I noticed more cattle in a field to the right. This scrubby area was very much like what I seen this past January down in Mexico on the Trans Mexico del Norte route. I had a nice workout climbing to the top of Lemon Gap. From the top of the ridge I could see an enormous valley stretched out in front of me with more ridges far to the west. As I rode through a cut I noticed a camouflaged canopy above me with a guy ostensibly aiming a three foot long telephoto lens towards the valley. I didn’t know if he was affiliated with Border Patrol or if he was a birder.
The valley contained a network of large berms that branched away from the highway. Spaced every tenth of a mile, each was a hundred yards long. Ostensibly the system was created for flood control. I was riding to the left of the white line and my radar signaled that there was a motorist behind me. I quickly cut over into the shoulder and the guy in a pick-up truck blasted his horn. There was nobody else out here and it was completely unnecessary. By 11 AM I had ridden 44 miles. The wind was blowing against my left hip and I was making good time. I could to see the railroad line far to my left and was ten miles from Marathon, where I would be having a wonderful lunch.
I rolled into Marathon and headed straight to the French Grocer, which east-bound Scottish Cyclist Sandy had told me about my first day in Texas. I purchased a fresh tostada, an egg and bacon burrito, a Dunkin’ Donuts iced coffee, and two orange juices. The cashier asked if I was Rob, and said that Daniela wanted to speak with me. While I was sitting out on front porch enjoying my breakfast, Daniela showed up and greeted me. Apparently Sandy had told her to keep an eye out for me. She shared more bagpipe stories and mentioned that Sandy had a twin brother. She asked if I was staying in Marathon, or pushing on. Before I left she handed me a care package full of energy bars for the road. She told me to stop at Moon Dog in Alpine and talk to Alan who would have a hotdog waiting for me. She mentioned that very few westbound cyclists passed through here.
Wow! Marathon was good to me. After my bleak experience in Sanderson, it was amazing to get a decent meal and meet a trail angel. I noticed sight-seers on their way to Big Bend, and removed my jacket, sweater, and leg-warmers. I lathered myself with sunscreen and put on my arm protectors. The sun was now out, and it was warm. I ran into east-bounders Leslie and Eyal who were coming from Marfa. We had met on the Southern Tier Facebook Support Group, and it was fun to meet in person. They would be spending the night in Marathon.
I was gaining elevation and there would be railroad tracks to the left of the highway the entire way to Alpine. I could definitely handle a railroad grade ascent. I passed a ghost bike memorial for a cyclist whom had been killed by a drunk driver. He had been 60 years old. I was flying down the road at 28 miles an hour. I was slowly climbing and the tail wind was a factor. I had a northwest heading and the wind was from the southeast. I was out of high gears and at my maximum speed. To my left were the Del Norte Mountains and to my right where the Glass Mountains. I came to the junction of US Highway 67. I was now only eight miles from Alpine and making incredible time. By 2 PM Alpine was four miles away and Marfa was in thirty four miles. I was on the Mexican West Texas Trade Route. I passed railroad track maintenance cars on a spur to the left. They were carrying long sections of rail. I heard a funny noise behind me that I didn’t recognize. I glanced over to see a pick up truck speeding down the train tracks.
Right before Alpine I rode round a big bend heading southwest. The crosswind was intense. I could see Alpine in the distance and I punched the Cow Dog directions into my phone. It would be closing at 3 PM and I would barely make it. I entered Alpine, population 5905. There was a banner across the highway advertising Cinco de Mayo celebrations next week. I passed a taxidermy shop, a saddlery, a building supply, a tractor supply, and a tire outlet. I passed Sul Ross State University. There was a giant white A made out of rocks up on a hill across town.
At Cow Dog, Alan and Danielle were waiting for me like clockwork. He handed me a giant street dog and three ice cold Mexican Cokes. A guy working with them knew Manu, my Warm Showers host in Marfa. They said that it was possible to cycle to Marfa in ninety minutes in the best of conditions. I would be on a windy road crossing a pass, and would have head winds. On my way out of town I saw a sign for Marfa 25 miles. US Highway 67 South had joined up with US 90 West. I passed Twin Sister Peaks to the left. The wind was crazy as I snaked my way up towards towards Paisano Pass. I passed Paisano Peak to the left and the railroad track re-joined me on the right. I crossed into Presidio County and finally reached the top of 4964 foot Paisano Pass. I noticed a long line of cars parked on a railroad spur.
After the pass I came to a long flat, with a mountain range far to the west. I passed a viewing area for the Marfa lights, which are mysterious glowing orbs that appear in the desert. I could see the town from three miles out. I then began passing RV parks and hotels. I entered Marfa, population 1981. I stopped at Stripes to pick up some beer to bring to Manu’s and I downed a large Coke on ice. I rode by the Judd Institute which had closed for the day, and then to the Hotel Paisano to purchase post cards.
Manu texted his address along with a photo of his house with an arrow drawn for where to enter. It was 6PM and he said he’d be there by 8PM. I had time to take a shower and begin today’s report. He later arrived with his girlfriend Jane, and the three of us went to Margaret’s where I ordered a tuna melt, along with shared portions of cheese toast, grilled carrots, and key lime pie.
April 27, 2022
Sanderson, TX to Marfa, TX 112 Miles
Start 7:13 AM Finish 6:15 PM
Ride Time 10:56
Ascent 4,022 Feet
Descent 2,089 Feet
Tour Total Miles 1319
Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/88388368
I slept OK in the astroturf tent area at Canyons RV Park in Sanderson. It was windy throughout the night and the motor traffic from nearby US 90 was loud. Cars were pulling into the RV lot all night long. Fortunately a train never came through. I woke up before the birds while it was still dark. I knew that I had a long day, and the earlier I started the better. It was a slow pack in the dark. I retraced yesterday’s ride to Stripes on the west end of town, where I got myself a Dunkin’ Donuts French Vanilla Iced Coffee and a Hostess mini coffee cake. Sanderson has seen better days. I ran into east-bounder Kathy from Denver who was doing the entire Southern Tier from San Diego to St Augustine. She had stayed at a hotel in Sanderson last night, and was going to Seminole Canyon today. I rode out to the split with Highway 285 N. and continued west on US 90. Big Bend Park National Park was 134 miles ahead.
Sanderson, TX to Marfa, TX 112 Miles
Start 7:13 AM Finish 6:15 PM
Ride Time 10:56
Ascent 4,022 Feet
Descent 2,089 Feet
Tour Total Miles 1319
Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/88388368
I slept OK in the astroturf tent area at Canyons RV Park in Sanderson. It was windy throughout the night and the motor traffic from nearby US 90 was loud. Cars were pulling into the RV lot all night long. Fortunately a train never came through. I woke up before the birds while it was still dark. I knew that I had a long day, and the earlier I started the better. It was a slow pack in the dark. I retraced yesterday’s ride to Stripes on the west end of town, where I got myself a Dunkin’ Donuts French Vanilla Iced Coffee and a Hostess mini coffee cake. Sanderson has seen better days. I ran into east-bounder Kathy from Denver who was doing the entire Southern Tier from San Diego to St Augustine. She had stayed at a hotel in Sanderson last night, and was going to Seminole Canyon today. I rode out to the split with Highway 285 N. and continued west on US 90. Big Bend Park National Park was 134 miles ahead.
In addition to the usual I was wearing my leg-warmers, sweater, rain jacket, and socks. I crossed Three Mile Draw and saw a sign, ‘Marathon 52 miles, Alpine 83 miles’. I was in a wide canyon with distant bluffs to the north and south. Train tracks were to the left and utility poles were to the right. Barbed wire fencing with tree branch supports stretched to the right. The landscape consisted of bushes and scrub. This was my favorite part of Texas. I enjoyed the wide open space and the laid-back attitude. Many come here to visit Big Bend. There was little motor traffic and I had a nice wide shoulder, almost as wide as the lane of traffic. I rode to the left of the white line and had the entire highway to myself. There was a group of crows in the middle of the highway picking away at a small rabbit or squirrel. I noticed that I was at Five Mile Gate. It was 57° F and forecast to go up to 80° F. The sky was gray and mist clung to the buttes. I kept criss-crossing the stream bed known as Sanderson Canyon. I hadn’t seen any running water since the Pecos River.
I passed Nine Mile Gate, and had actually ridden ten miles. I stopped to flip my map panels. As I folded the map I couldn’t help but notice the elevation profile for today. I was currently at 3000 feet elevation, and would be climbing to 5000 feet. I passed Eleven Mile Gate and noticed a sign, ‘Marathon 43 miles, Alpine 74 miles’. I crossed into Pecos County. I saw my first border patrol of the day. I was now much further away from the Rio Grande. In this part of Texas US 90 is the southern-most east-west corridor and it was now a considerable distance from the border. Chances were slim that anyone would choose to cross here. I crossed over Longfellow Draw where workers were reconstructing a railroad crossing. I passed over a mile of parked freight train hopper cars. I had initially tried to count them and quickly gave up. The cars were lined up on a spur. The line eventually split away to the south following the canyon, while the highway continued west. I was riding through a wide open canyon with buttes to either side. There were stunning outcrops ahead. I crossed over Dry Creek, which lived up to its name.
I crossed into Brewster County, and immediately noticed inferior road conditions. The shoulder was rough. It was still wide but bumpy with scattered debris, so I rode to the left of the white line. It was 9:17 AM and I had ridden 23 miles. I could see a radio tower far in the distance. And then my shadow appeared. Ostensibly it would soon be time to remove my jacket and put on my sunglasses. My shadow didn’t last long, however ,and I just kept peddling. I would ride in the shoulder whenever a motorist passed, and I kept a keen lookout for goat heads. I came to a sign that said they were doing road work. I was almost to the radio tower. At 9:35 AM I passed the giant radio tower that had kept my interest for the past three miles. There was a butte to the left and a large ridge to the right. By 10 AM I had gone 31 miles, and was now at an elevation of 4000 feet. I pulled over to put on my sunglasses but elected to keep my rain jacket on. I loosened my wrist straps and unzipped the front. The air was still chilly.
I noticed the first cows that I’d seen in days. They were on the left side of the road and there weren’t very many of them. And then I noticed more cattle in a field to the right. This scrubby area was very much like what I seen this past January down in Mexico on the Trans Mexico del Norte route. I had a nice workout climbing to the top of Lemon Gap. From the top of the ridge I could see an enormous valley stretched out in front of me with more ridges far to the west. As I rode through a cut I noticed a camouflaged canopy above me with a guy ostensibly aiming a three foot long telephoto lens towards the valley. I didn’t know if he was affiliated with Border Patrol or if he was a birder.
The valley contained a network of large berms that branched away from the highway. Spaced every tenth of a mile, each was a hundred yards long. Ostensibly the system was created for flood control. I was riding to the left of the white line and my radar signaled that there was a motorist behind me. I quickly cut over into the shoulder and the guy in a pick-up truck blasted his horn. There was nobody else out here and it was completely unnecessary. By 11 AM I had ridden 44 miles. The wind was blowing against my left hip and I was making good time. I could to see the railroad line far to my left and was ten miles from Marathon, where I would be having a wonderful lunch.
I rolled into Marathon and headed straight to the French Grocer, which east-bound Scottish Cyclist Sandy had told me about my first day in Texas. I purchased a fresh tostada, an egg and bacon burrito, a Dunkin’ Donuts iced coffee, and two orange juices. The cashier asked if I was Rob, and said that Daniela wanted to speak with me. While I was sitting out on front porch enjoying my breakfast, Daniela showed up and greeted me. Apparently Sandy had told her to keep an eye out for me. She shared more bagpipe stories and mentioned that Sandy had a twin brother. She asked if I was staying in Marathon, or pushing on. Before I left she handed me a care package full of energy bars for the road. She told me to stop at Moon Dog in Alpine and talk to Alan who would have a hotdog waiting for me. She mentioned that very few westbound cyclists passed through here.
Wow! Marathon was good to me. After my bleak experience in Sanderson, it was amazing to get a decent meal and meet a trail angel. I noticed sight-seers on their way to Big Bend, and removed my jacket, sweater, and leg-warmers. I lathered myself with sunscreen and put on my arm protectors. The sun was now out, and it was warm. I ran into east-bounders Leslie and Eyal who were coming from Marfa. We had met on the Southern Tier Facebook Support Group, and it was fun to meet in person. They would be spending the night in Marathon.
I was gaining elevation and there would be railroad tracks to the left of the highway the entire way to Alpine. I could definitely handle a railroad grade ascent. I passed a ghost bike memorial for a cyclist whom had been killed by a drunk driver. He had been 60 years old. I was flying down the road at 28 miles an hour. I was slowly climbing and the tail wind was a factor. I had a northwest heading and the wind was from the southeast. I was out of high gears and at my maximum speed. To my left were the Del Norte Mountains and to my right where the Glass Mountains. I came to the junction of US Highway 67. I was now only eight miles from Alpine and making incredible time. By 2 PM Alpine was four miles away and Marfa was in thirty four miles. I was on the Mexican West Texas Trade Route. I passed railroad track maintenance cars on a spur to the left. They were carrying long sections of rail. I heard a funny noise behind me that I didn’t recognize. I glanced over to see a pick up truck speeding down the train tracks.
Right before Alpine I rode round a big bend heading southwest. The crosswind was intense. I could see Alpine in the distance and I punched the Cow Dog directions into my phone. It would be closing at 3 PM and I would barely make it. I entered Alpine, population 5905. There was a banner across the highway advertising Cinco de Mayo celebrations next week. I passed a taxidermy shop, a saddlery, a building supply, a tractor supply, and a tire outlet. I passed Sul Ross State University. There was a giant white A made out of rocks up on a hill across town.
At Cow Dog, Alan and Danielle were waiting for me like clockwork. He handed me a giant street dog and three ice cold Mexican Cokes. A guy working with them knew Manu, my Warm Showers host in Marfa. They said that it was possible to cycle to Marfa in ninety minutes in the best of conditions. I would be on a windy road crossing a pass, and would have head winds. On my way out of town I saw a sign for Marfa 25 miles. US Highway 67 South had joined up with US 90 West. I passed Twin Sister Peaks to the left. The wind was crazy as I snaked my way up towards towards Paisano Pass. I passed Paisano Peak to the left and the railroad track re-joined me on the right. I crossed into Presidio County and finally reached the top of 4964 foot Paisano Pass. I noticed a long line of cars parked on a railroad spur.
After the pass I came to a long flat, with a mountain range far to the west. I passed a viewing area for the Marfa lights, which are mysterious glowing orbs that appear in the desert. I could see the town from three miles out. I then began passing RV parks and hotels. I entered Marfa, population 1981. I stopped at Stripes to pick up some beer to bring to Manu’s and I downed a large Coke on ice. I rode by the Judd Institute which had closed for the day, and then to the Hotel Paisano to purchase post cards.
Manu texted his address along with a photo of his house with an arrow drawn for where to enter. It was 6PM and he said he’d be there by 8PM. I had time to take a shower and begin today’s report. He later arrived with his girlfriend Jane, and the three of us went to Margaret’s where I ordered a tuna melt, along with shared portions of cheese toast, grilled carrots, and key lime pie.
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| Canyons RV Park in Sanderson |
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| East-bounder Kathy from Denver |
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| US 90 West |
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| US 90 West |
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| US 90 West |
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| US 90 West |
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| Marathon, TX |
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| Marathon, TX |
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| Breakfast at the French Grocer in Marathon |
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| US 90 West |
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| East-bound cyclists Eyal and Leslie |
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| Ghost bike memorial |
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| Alan from Cow Dog |
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| Marfa, TX |
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| Judd Foundation, Marfa, TX |
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| Map & Elevation Profile |
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