Southern Tier Part 2 - Day #12 Vanderpool, TX to Brackettville, TX
Southern Tier Part 2 - Day #12
I slept well in RV site number 15 at the lost Maples Country Store and RV park in Vanderpool. I chose an RV site because I needed to charge my devices. I ran an extension cord into my tent and everything was charged by morning. Last night I had sat at the picnic table and was too tired to finish yesterday’s report. I woke up this morning with the birds. The pack-up went quickly. The tent kept blowing away in the wind. It was overcast and gray. I rode out of the RV park and took a right on State Highway 337 heading west towards Leakey. The wind was coming out of the south.
I really lucked out with the store and RV park last evening. Sometimes the stores on the map are closed or even shuttered. The RV park hadn’t even been on my map, and I was prepared to stealth camp. It was $20 to camp in the RV park and it would’ve been $30 back at the state park. I had the RV park completely to myself and I had Wi-Fi. It was a perfect outcome.
This morning, in addition to the usual, I was wearing a sweater and leg-warmers, and I was warm. I was in a beautiful valley surrounded by tall ridges. I could see the uphill ahead on the highway and knew that I would soon be stripping down to my shorts. When I got to the top of the ridge I stopped to admire the vista and look across the valley to the next set of ridges.
I noticed a warning sign that read, ‘Caution next 12 miles. Since January 2006, 13 killed in motorcycle related crashes’. I entered Real county. Another sign read ‘Sharp curves and sleep grades next 12 miles’. I went screaming down a hill and crossed the Little West Sabinal River. I climbed to the top of another ridge and was showered with mist on the downhill. On the next climb I was passed by a group of noisy sports cars. I went flying down the following hill and crossed the Little Dry Frio River. From the top of the next ridge I could see Leakey ahead in the distance. On my way into town I passed a large wood pulp mill.
I crossed over the Frio River and entered Leakey, population 425 and home of the Leakey Eagles. I saw a deer run across the highway and leap over a fence and across a field. I stopped at the Leakey Mercantile where I purchased a Dunkin’ Donuts French Vanilla Iced Coffee, a Minute Maid Orange Juice, and a small homemade pecan pie.
My gloves were soaking wet. They had been damp first thing this morning when I put them on, ostensibly from my sweat but perhaps from humidity or the mist. There hadn’t been condensation in my tent this morning. I haven’t had any cell phone service for the past two days. The proprietor at the RV park told me that it was ATT country. She mentioned that visitors came to this area from San Antonio, and that in the summer it would get up to 105°. She said that it was dry heat, and not so bad.
My sunglasses were covered with drizzle so I removed them. There were drops falling from the brim of my helmet, but it was just a light mist. Actually, so far I’d been very lucky with the weather, knock on wood. Flags alongside the road were partially fluttering today. I was concerned because there would be a long section going south from Camp Wood directly into the wind. I would be following the Neuces river valley and perhaps I'd be lucky.
I ran into east-bounders Greg and Molly who were riding the Southern Tier all the way to St Augustine. They had stayed in Brackettville last night and were going to Vanderpool tonight. Coincidentally I had met Greg last summer on the Western Express outside of Ely, NV. He stayed at a KOA that night and I had gone at the Hotel Nevada. They recommended that I stay with Warm Showers host Manu in Marfa. They also mentioned that I would have to deal with heat and wind in Western Texas. They asked about dogs and I said they’d need their horns in Louisiana.
I rode through a recent burn area and could still smell the soot. I passed the 1000 mile mark on my odometer and was now 2/3 of the way through Part 2 of the tour. Two small dogs ran out onto the highway to chase me and then I passed back-to-back road kill deer on the shoulder.
I spotted the Camp Wood water tower in the distance and then the stupid noisy sports cars from before passed me going back in the other direction. Camp Wood has a population of 706 and is home of the Nueces Panthers. A sign welcomed me to Nueces Canyon. I would be following the river south for twenty miles. I stopped at the Corner Store Cafe and ordered a cheeseburger, fries, and two cans of Coke. The friendly server gave me the password to the Wi-Fi.
After lunch I headed south on State Route 55. I had a headwind and there would be no services until my destination in Brackettville, fifty miles away. I crossed the Uvalde County line. The highway crossed the Nueces river and I noticed a small dam upstream. The water was a pleasant emerald color.
After a nine miles I rode through Montell, no population listed. There was a United Methodist Church and a few buildings, but no services. Nine miles later I came to the intersection of State Highway 334 and took a right going west. The wind conditions vastly improved and I could make better time. Following Leakey the grades had been flat. Texas Hill country was now behind me. I had followed the Nueces River valley and then the West Nueces River valley. I was definitely making better time heading west. The sun would occasionally make an appearance.
I passed the entrance for the Mountain View Ranch and realized that there were no longer any mountains in sight. The land was flat. There was a deer fence on the left side of the road and a barbed wire fence on the right. Behind the fences was scrub, ostensibly for cattle grazing.
About six miles out from Brackettville I could see a grouping of radio and communication towers. Thunderstorms were forecast for tonight and it was supposed to rain all day tomorrow. Three miles out of Brackettville I passed a large photovoltaic farm. This is what I had noticed from before. I spotted the water tower in town. I then entered Brackettville, population 1740. I was now on the Texas Pecos Trail
I stopped at a Stripes Convenience Store for a large coke, a six pack of Modelo Especial, and a bag of ice. I rode over to the Fort Clark Spring Motel located in an old fort. I took a long bath. My feet were sore. I washed my clothes, shaved, and plugged in my devices. I looked over my itinerary, the weather, and wind forecasts for the next few days. There were still challenges ahead.
There wasn’t much to choose from in terms of restaurants. It being Sunday most everything was closed. I went to Pizza Outpost which advertised New York style pizza with Texas hospitality. I ordered two slices of the Chef’s Special along with a Dos Equis. I had brought my laptop and finished editing this report in the restaurant.
April 24, 2022
Vanderpool, TX to Brackettville, TX 85 Miles
Start 7:42 AM Finish 4:29 PM
Ride Time 8:46
Ascent 3,919 Feet
Descent 4,403 Feet
Tour Total Miles 1053
Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/88130072
Vanderpool, TX to Brackettville, TX 85 Miles
Start 7:42 AM Finish 4:29 PM
Ride Time 8:46
Ascent 3,919 Feet
Descent 4,403 Feet
Tour Total Miles 1053
Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/88130072
I slept well in RV site number 15 at the lost Maples Country Store and RV park in Vanderpool. I chose an RV site because I needed to charge my devices. I ran an extension cord into my tent and everything was charged by morning. Last night I had sat at the picnic table and was too tired to finish yesterday’s report. I woke up this morning with the birds. The pack-up went quickly. The tent kept blowing away in the wind. It was overcast and gray. I rode out of the RV park and took a right on State Highway 337 heading west towards Leakey. The wind was coming out of the south.
I really lucked out with the store and RV park last evening. Sometimes the stores on the map are closed or even shuttered. The RV park hadn’t even been on my map, and I was prepared to stealth camp. It was $20 to camp in the RV park and it would’ve been $30 back at the state park. I had the RV park completely to myself and I had Wi-Fi. It was a perfect outcome.
This morning, in addition to the usual, I was wearing a sweater and leg-warmers, and I was warm. I was in a beautiful valley surrounded by tall ridges. I could see the uphill ahead on the highway and knew that I would soon be stripping down to my shorts. When I got to the top of the ridge I stopped to admire the vista and look across the valley to the next set of ridges.
I noticed a warning sign that read, ‘Caution next 12 miles. Since January 2006, 13 killed in motorcycle related crashes’. I entered Real county. Another sign read ‘Sharp curves and sleep grades next 12 miles’. I went screaming down a hill and crossed the Little West Sabinal River. I climbed to the top of another ridge and was showered with mist on the downhill. On the next climb I was passed by a group of noisy sports cars. I went flying down the following hill and crossed the Little Dry Frio River. From the top of the next ridge I could see Leakey ahead in the distance. On my way into town I passed a large wood pulp mill.
I crossed over the Frio River and entered Leakey, population 425 and home of the Leakey Eagles. I saw a deer run across the highway and leap over a fence and across a field. I stopped at the Leakey Mercantile where I purchased a Dunkin’ Donuts French Vanilla Iced Coffee, a Minute Maid Orange Juice, and a small homemade pecan pie.
My gloves were soaking wet. They had been damp first thing this morning when I put them on, ostensibly from my sweat but perhaps from humidity or the mist. There hadn’t been condensation in my tent this morning. I haven’t had any cell phone service for the past two days. The proprietor at the RV park told me that it was ATT country. She mentioned that visitors came to this area from San Antonio, and that in the summer it would get up to 105°. She said that it was dry heat, and not so bad.
My sunglasses were covered with drizzle so I removed them. There were drops falling from the brim of my helmet, but it was just a light mist. Actually, so far I’d been very lucky with the weather, knock on wood. Flags alongside the road were partially fluttering today. I was concerned because there would be a long section going south from Camp Wood directly into the wind. I would be following the Neuces river valley and perhaps I'd be lucky.
I ran into east-bounders Greg and Molly who were riding the Southern Tier all the way to St Augustine. They had stayed in Brackettville last night and were going to Vanderpool tonight. Coincidentally I had met Greg last summer on the Western Express outside of Ely, NV. He stayed at a KOA that night and I had gone at the Hotel Nevada. They recommended that I stay with Warm Showers host Manu in Marfa. They also mentioned that I would have to deal with heat and wind in Western Texas. They asked about dogs and I said they’d need their horns in Louisiana.
I rode through a recent burn area and could still smell the soot. I passed the 1000 mile mark on my odometer and was now 2/3 of the way through Part 2 of the tour. Two small dogs ran out onto the highway to chase me and then I passed back-to-back road kill deer on the shoulder.
I spotted the Camp Wood water tower in the distance and then the stupid noisy sports cars from before passed me going back in the other direction. Camp Wood has a population of 706 and is home of the Nueces Panthers. A sign welcomed me to Nueces Canyon. I would be following the river south for twenty miles. I stopped at the Corner Store Cafe and ordered a cheeseburger, fries, and two cans of Coke. The friendly server gave me the password to the Wi-Fi.
After lunch I headed south on State Route 55. I had a headwind and there would be no services until my destination in Brackettville, fifty miles away. I crossed the Uvalde County line. The highway crossed the Nueces river and I noticed a small dam upstream. The water was a pleasant emerald color.
After a nine miles I rode through Montell, no population listed. There was a United Methodist Church and a few buildings, but no services. Nine miles later I came to the intersection of State Highway 334 and took a right going west. The wind conditions vastly improved and I could make better time. Following Leakey the grades had been flat. Texas Hill country was now behind me. I had followed the Nueces River valley and then the West Nueces River valley. I was definitely making better time heading west. The sun would occasionally make an appearance.
I crossed into Kinney County and then rode across the river bed of the West Nueces River. it was wide and filled with large white rocks, but I didn’t notice a drop of water. This part of the state is dry. I came to the junction of State Highway 3199 and was thirteen miles from my destination. I had pedaled 72 miles and it was 3:09 PM.
I passed the entrance for the Mountain View Ranch and realized that there were no longer any mountains in sight. The land was flat. There was a deer fence on the left side of the road and a barbed wire fence on the right. Behind the fences was scrub, ostensibly for cattle grazing.
About six miles out from Brackettville I could see a grouping of radio and communication towers. Thunderstorms were forecast for tonight and it was supposed to rain all day tomorrow. Three miles out of Brackettville I passed a large photovoltaic farm. This is what I had noticed from before. I spotted the water tower in town. I then entered Brackettville, population 1740. I was now on the Texas Pecos Trail
I stopped at a Stripes Convenience Store for a large coke, a six pack of Modelo Especial, and a bag of ice. I rode over to the Fort Clark Spring Motel located in an old fort. I took a long bath. My feet were sore. I washed my clothes, shaved, and plugged in my devices. I looked over my itinerary, the weather, and wind forecasts for the next few days. There were still challenges ahead.
There wasn’t much to choose from in terms of restaurants. It being Sunday most everything was closed. I went to Pizza Outpost which advertised New York style pizza with Texas hospitality. I ordered two slices of the Chef’s Special along with a Dos Equis. I had brought my laptop and finished editing this report in the restaurant.
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| Los Maples RV Park site #15 |
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| Texas Hill Country |
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| Texas Hill Country |
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| Texas Hill Country |
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| East-bounders Greg & Molly |
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| 1000 mile mark |
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| Downtown Camp Wood, TX |
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| Lunch at the Corner Store Cafe |
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| The Corner Store Cafe in Camp Wood, TX |
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| The Corner Store Cafe in Camp Wood, TX |
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| Fort Clark Springs Motel Brackettville, TX |
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| Map & Elevation Profile |
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